Vaccination
Rabies – Vaccination against rabies is legally required in New York State, as this is a fatal disease which can be transmitted to humans.  Kittens must be three months of age or older to receive their initial vaccination.  A booster vaccination is needed every year thereafter. We use a non-adjuvanted Rabies vaccine made just for cats.

FVRCP – This is often called the “distemper” vaccination.  It is actually a combination vaccine which protects against the following viral diseases:  Panleukopenia (feline distemper), Rhinotracheitis (upper respiratory virus), and Calicivirus (upper respiratory virus).  The initial FVRCP vaccination is usually given when the kitten is separated from the mother (six to eight weeks of age).  Boosters are needed every three to four weeks until the kitten is fourteen weeks of age.  A booster vaccination is given one year later, then every 1 to 3  years.

FeLV – We recommend that all cats be given the FeLV series early in life. Typically, the initial vaccination is given at 8-9 weeks of age. A booster is given two weeks later. Cats kept strictly indoors can then discontinue the FeLV, but for those who will be going outside or who will be exposed to cats that go outside, vaccination should be repeated yearly.

Traveling with your Cat

Most of the time the only traveling your cat does is to go visit the veterinarian. This tends to make them wary of traveling. If you take the time to get them used to the carrier and car as young as possible you both will be better off. If your cat runs and hides whenever they see or hear the carrier you should do some conditioning exercises to make them less afraid. Try keeping the carrier out for awhile and feeding them in it. Then put it away again. They shouldn't associate the carrier with an end result of a car ride. Sometimes it can just be there. Un-scarey. You can also try putting in a blanket or toy they really like. Call them to you when you are near the carrier and then give them a treat or play with them. Don't always put them in the carrier every time. On occasion take them for a short trip around the block and then home again for treats and play. Hopefully, this will desensitize them so when it comes time for their veterinary exam, the carrier will be no big deal.

It is also important to make putting your cat in the carrier as easy as possible because if you are ever in an emergency evacuation situation you need to be able to contain them quickly and safely.

Some cats will not respond well to conditioning training and will continue to be very afraid of the carrier. For these cats you can take the cat into a small room, like a powder room, shut them in and then go retrieve the carrier from storage. Top loading carriers work best for cats who are difficult to put in the carrier, but if you don't have a top loading carrier you can tip your carrier up on end. Place the cat in the carrier rear-end first, when they can't see where they are going they typically don't start to struggle in time to be effective. Do not waste any time, pick them up, put them in and be quick. Stay calm to help them stay calm.

General Litter Box Hygiene

1:  The number of litter boxes should equal the number of cats you have plus one.  (Ex. 2 cats need 3 litter boxes)

2:  Litter – Clumping, low dust and unscented

3:  Scoop pans daily

4:  Change all the litter every 2 to 4 weeks

5:  Wash litter boxes with mild soap and cold water every month

6:  Discard litter boxes after 1 year

7:  Place litter boxes far from food

8:  Place litter boxes far from sources of sudden, loud noises e.g. furnace, washing machine

9:  Place 1 litter box on each floor of the home

Please talk to any one of our staff about litter box issues, we are glad to help!